Consumers are planning to spend big on fashion post-lockdown —
but are unaware of how much plastic goes into their clothes, new
research finds.
‘Turning the Tide’ from the RSA (royal society for arts,
manufactures and commerce) digs in to public attitudes on fast
fashion and plastics, and also looks at how we’ve changed our
buying habits during the pandemic.
It calls for action from the government, fashion industry and
consumers to reduce the impact of plastics on the environment, as
the public is set to splurge on new clothing post-pandemic.
The public does want action on plastics: 76% of us would like to
see less plastics and petrochemicals in clothing. But we don’t
think that we’re the problem – only 33% say that we regularly buy
clothing containing synthetic materials, in spite of synthetic
fibres accounting for 69% of all textile production. Just under
half of fast fashion consumers say they often buy clothes
containing plastics – despite websites like Boohoo and Asos being
awash with synthetic materials.
Plastic microfibres are a growing problem for our rivers,
ecosystems and food chains, having recently been found as far
afield as the Arctic. In 2015, polyester production was
responsible for 700 million tonnes of CO2, the equivalent of all
the annual carbon emissions for the whole of Germany. Recent
research has found that an average 6kg wash releases more than
700,000 microfibres.
The report also shows that we have been changing our buying
habits during the pandemic, warning that a post-pandemic
‘splurge’ may be on the way once the lockdown lifts:
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62% of us say that we have bought less clothing since the
start of the first lockdown.
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A small number of us have seen the pandemic as an
opportunity to change how we treat our clothes – 17% say they
have mended more clothing than usual, and 19% of us intend to
repair our clothes more after the lockdown ends.
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But 29% are looking forward to buying new clothes when
shops open up again – including 49% of those who regularly shop
at fast fashion websites, compared to 25% among those who do
not. Another 29% of the public say that they have bought new
clothing as a treat during lockdown. The report's authors warn
that we need to avoid a fast fashion binge when restrictions on
socialising end.
In response, the RSA is calling for:
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A marketing ban on clothing made from plastics and
petrochemicals, in a similar vein to successful bans on
fast-food, cigarettes and alcohol.
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A tax on clothing imported into or produced in the UK
which contain virgin plastics, in order to disincentivise the
extraction of fossil-fuels destined to become clothing. Income
from this tax would be used to invest in new innovations in
biomaterials and recycling.
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An independent commission for the future of fashion:
focused on dealing with the environmental impacts of fashion
and working towards a circular and regenerative system, through
innovation in biomaterials, regional supply chains and the
creation of high-quality jobs in the UK.
The report is part of the RSA's Living
Change Approach, which helps changemakers around the world to
understand the challenges of our time and effectively realise
lasting change.
Josie Warden, Head of Regenerative Design at the RSA, said:
“The enormous tide of plastics used in the clothes we wear is one
of the great environmental scandals of our generation. While we
have been quicker to act on issues like plastic packaging and
moving towards renewables, the fossil fuel industry has begun to
pivot to new areas – including cheaply-made synthetic textiles.
“This has gone hand-in-hand with the rise of fast fashion. Our
findings suggest that the public is less aware of the use of
plastics in fashion than in other parts of their lives. Greater
transparency, awareness and action is required – top-down
measures like new taxes should be matched by commitments from the
fashion industry, and more scrutiny from consumers about the
clothes they’re buying.
“If you’re planning on buying new clothes when restrictions on
work and socialising lift, think carefully about how your clothes
have been made, what materials they contain, and whether they
will last.
"And if you’re planning on treating yourself, try to buy less and
buy better.”